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Wire - Sterling Silver - Half Hard
Wire - Sterling Silver - Half Hard


.925 Sterling Silver. Use for earwires and jump rings. Half-hard sterling silver wire can be used in almost all of your bead projects. It is firm and holds its shape well.

If you are ordering more than 1 foot and would like a continuous length, please call customer service or simply specify any requirements in the order notes.

Please note: Sterling Silver wire is custom cut and is not returnable.

Click photo to choose gauge

Item# Item Name Price Qty Add
WIR-340 Wire - Sterling Silver - 20 gauge Half Hard - 1 Foot
WIR-342 Wire - Sterling Silver - 22 gauge Half Hard - 1 Foot
WIR-344 Wire - Sterling Silver - 24 gauge Half Hard - 1 Foot
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Sterling Silver Wire

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How To Prepare Dead-Soft Wire For Use

Before you begin designing with dead-soft wire, make sure the wire is as smooth and kink-free as possible. Here's how to prepare dead-soft wire for use to ensure a smoother result in your designs.

1. Pull your wire through a polishing cloth to smooth out the tiny kinks and wrinkles. Please Note: This process can also work-harden your wire, keep this process to a minimum.

2. If you are preparing three or four wires, pull each wire through once, then pull all of them through together once. They will flow in the same direction and will be much easier to sculpt.

How To Heat-Harden Sterling Silver

This process will increase the strength of the metal and reduce its ductility. To harden the metal, you will be applying heat to the metal; whenever you apply heat to sterling, surround it with nitrogen, argon or forming gas or cover it with flux to prevent the metal from oxidizing.

IMPORTANT: Fine silver cannot be heat-hardened.

Annealing Sterling Silver

Annealing sterling silver, recovers metal that has become work-hardened, leaving the metal to become more workable.

Step 1 Anneal the sterling silver between 1000F and 1200F (537C and 648C).
Step 2 Heat the sterling at temperature for 30 to 60 minutes to achieve a Vickers hardness of 6676dph.

Please Note: During annealing, protect the metal against exposure to oxygen by surrounding it with nitrogen, argon or forming gas. If this isnt possible, protect the metal by covering it with flux contained in a stainless steel pan.

How To Understand Metal Hardness

These definitions will be helpful when choosing the hardness best suited to your jewelry technique and design goes a long way toward achieving the professional result you want.


Metal that is dead soft is in a relaxed state at the molecular level, so it is easy to bend, shape and hammer. The act of bending and shaping will gradually work-harden the metal--right up to the breaking point. Dead soft metal will not hold its shape if put under stress in structures such as hinges or clasps.


Metal that is half-hard has been worked a bit, tightening the grain at the molecular level. This metal is harder to bend and hammer, but it is still possible in some cases to shape the metal, it will take more force. While still malleable, it will also hold its shape under a certain amount of stress; it is ideal for wire wrapped structures that will support other components. If fabricating an item that needs both strength and a thinner gauge, the best recommendation is half-hard.


Metal that is tempered (or significantly work-hardened) will be difficult to bend but will hold whatever bend you put into it. This hardness is ideal for clasps or hinges.


Metal thoroughly hardened will lose much all of its malleability and will actually spring back into its original shape when bent by hand. This hardness is ideal for ear wires, jump rings and head pins.

Metal hardness is changeable. If you start with dead soft and work it or stress it, you will harden it. If you start with hard metal and heat it (either by soldering on it or by deliberately annealing it) you will soften the metal--all the way back to dead soft.

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